Following the Rio Grande
Terlingua, Texas: I am going to be honest
from the first sentence - today we continued (in the Honda) along the
Texas Mountain Trail, this time via Farm Road 170, to Presidio, Texas.
The road follows the Rio Grande River, which is also the US-Mexico border.
Much of the drive is in
Big Bend Ranch State Park. We snapped a ton of photos. We had Mexican
food for lunch. We had Mexican food for dinner.
It was a very interesting day, especially since this area was inundated by a
massive flood while the rest of the country was focused on Hurricane Ike.
Unless you have high-speed internet, I suggest you just go back to work
instead of going deeper into this page. I have posted 38 photos.
End of disclaimer.
Our first stop was to a small town about 16 miles west of Terlingua -
Lajitas (Lah-hee-tas). The entire town is a very spiffy
resort -
hotel, RV park, spa, equestrian center and golf course. Unfortunately, the
golf course is now gone - washed away in the flood. We did a tour of the RV
park. It is very nice... but we wouldn't want to camp next to the guy who
has this sign strapped to the back of his 5th wheel... and we don't even
have a dog:
This photo is posted without comment
Main Street of the Lajitas Resort - shops, restaurants and services
Continuing on our way to Presidio, much of the scenery looks
like this:
Beautiful
Texas Bluebonnets here (everywhere else, Lupines)
We stopped at a river access point (where rafts and canoes put in) - easy to
see flood damage.
Across the border to Mexico - we saw two cowboys.
Hola, Amigos
Remember when I said Texas has so many picnic spots along their roads? Here
is another.
Desert Marigolds with Lupines
We took about a mile hike walk into a slot
canyon, Closed Canyon, in
Big Bend Ranch State Park (not Big Bend National Park). The
water from a wash rushes through this sand stone canyon to the Rio Grande.
(Not to worry, no chance of rain today - temperatures were in the mid-70's,
with mostly clear skies.)
Closed Canyon
Closed Canyon
Speaking of washes... flood gauges have been erected everywhere a wash
crosses the highway.
DT says: if you plan to drive on this road during a rainstorm,
make sure your tires are taller than Terry.
We arrived to the end of the road -
Presidio, Texas - in
time for lunch at a very famous cantina -
El Patio.
Presidio is a small town, with a border crossing to Ojinaga, Mexico. It has
a few restaurants, many shops, (a Dollar Store and a 99¢ Store) -
and is an absolute metropolis compared to Terlingua. Every parking space at
the high school held a pickup. We have decided George Bush dictated that
every small town in Texas receive a new post office. Every town we have
visited has a brand-new post office - and Presidio (and Terlingua) does too.
El Patio in Presidio, Texas - today filled with locals, Mexican nationals
from across the river,
US Border Patrol officers, foodies and tourists.
The Mexican Plate: enchilada, taco and chile rellano (rice and beans, of
course).
The beer was the special - the new lime flavored BudLight. It was
surprisingly good, though I completely distrust "Natural Lime Flavor". Why
not just squeeze a lime wedge in a beer already?
This is a fajita burrito. It was stuffed with onions, peppers, garlic,
grilled beef and grilled chicken.
Note the little packet of sour cream!
El Patio has a Don Quixote theme
Several foodies said El Patio served the best Mexican food
they have ever had. We do not agree, though the food was absolutely
wonderful and worth a 70 mile drive. However, El Patio served the best salsa
(made fresh daily on-site) we have ever had and luckily for us, they sell it
to go! Life is good. And a note here... in this part of Texas they do not
mess around with salsa. It is hot. I mean, lip and tongue-numbing hot.
And so we reversed our route and headed back to Terlingua - but we stopped
at all the places we passed on our way to Presidio. First stop was to
Fort Leaton State Historical Site. Not too long after Christopher
Columbus discovered the "New World", circa 1540, Spanish soldiers arrived in
this area. They didn't find anything (gold, gems, etc.) interesting, so they
left. In 1683 two priests arrived from Spain and started several missions in
the area, one of them on the site of present Fort Leaton. In 1848, Benjamin
Leaton took over the buildings and started a trading post. The post closed
in 1875. The restored buildings are now owned by the State of Texas, and a
museum is housed inside the fort walls. (NOTE TO PEOPLE WHO ACTUALLY
READ MY BLOG: Fort Leaton was along the same road - that went from El
Paso to San Antonio - we saw at Fort Davis a few days ago.)
The surrounding area was also the site of a three week battle in 1913 -
Pancho
Villa v The Mexican Government in the Battle of Ojinaga. Pancho Villa
won... and Villa hired a New York City film crew to record the event!
Fort Leaton
Inside the trading post. This area was used to house animals.
A Big Wheel with a Big Wheel
The courtyard inside Fort Leaton
Fort Leaton door
Another door
For variety - a window in Fort Leaton.
Sorry - I just love doors and windows.
See? Told you!
Part of Farm Road 170 is still washed-out due to the flood
in September 2008. There is a two-mile diversion - a soft, sandy, gravely
road. Our Honda had no trouble on this road.
Diversion
Next stop was on private property - ruins of two small ranch
buildings set into huge boulders. (A reader told us this may be a film set.)
A great situation and backdrop for your casita:
Ruins on a ranch?
Sandstone sculptures
Why do I even let him drive my car?
There are several old ruins along Farm Road 170. This old
house is set below a red-rock hillside that was absolutely bursting with
beautiful prickly pear cactus.
So much color
Did I forget to mention My Driver is not going to shave until the Ducks win
a basketball game?
Coach Kent: you gotta help me out, man. It's like kissing a javelina.
Another view of the sometime river bed
This is another river access point
GO DUCKS! The ducks were in the middle of the river, so I cannot report
their nationality.
Another river access point - we saw two javelina here.
And just for fun - a black and white shot of the Rio Grande.
Looking west, Mexico to the left; USA to the right.
Which brings us back to Terlingua in time to look over our
photos and have a little rest before heading out for dinner. We had been
away about nine hours.
Not a lot of restaurants to choose from in Terlingua, but we heard Chile
Pepper (Mexican food) was good. We will never know as the place was so smoky
(and no one was smoking), we couldn't stay. So we went to the next
restaurant, Rio Bravo Mexican Restaurant.
Rio Bravo Mexican Restaurant in Terlingua, Texas
Rio Bravo is simply teeny. One 16x16 foot room with nine
tables - each with identical plastic sunflower tablecloths. (No
English spoken here, by the way.) The place is pretty-much a dump, but this
is part of the charm of Rio Bravo... along with the TV on the wall showing
Mexican soap operas.
We ordered beers. Rio Bravo doesn't offer beer - they have a BYOB policy.
This is no problem as there is a drive-through (DRIVE THROUGH!) beer store
conveniently located next door to the restaurant! Gotta love Texas.
Does this look like my lunch? It didn't taste like my lunch.
DT had enchiladas. They stack 'em at Rio Bravo.
Sadly, the charm of Rio Bravo quickly disappeared when our
food was delivered. It was just plain bad. Or maybe it just paled in
comparison to our lunch? Who knows? We still went home with full bellies as
the chips and salsa were delicious.
We have enjoyed another wonderful day on the road and I again apologize for
posting so many photos. Until my next update, I remain, your American
correspondent.
RV Park:
Big Bend Motor Inn & Oasis Campground - Dusty parking lot with
full-service hook-ups. Some 50 amp sites. Your best bet in the area,
especially if you have a Big Rig. We paid $29.