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Fort Clatsop and the Columbia River Maritime Museum

Astoria, Oregon: All my weather bragging yesterday jumped up and bit me. It is hot in Astoria! (Okay, not 106 (!!!) hot like we are getting at home, but high-80's hot.) The RV park owners actually apologized to me for the weather. Too funny... but Astorians think of 80's as a virtual heat wave. Don't you just love Oregon? It really was pretty hot today... but since my little desktop icon says it is sizzling at my house, I will just shut-up and post a few photos.

Our day started at the Lewis & Clark National Historic Park, site of Fort Clatsop where the Corp of Discovery, ordered by President Thomas Jefferson, wintered-over in 1805-06 after reaching the Pacific Ocean. Lewis & Clark National Historic Park actually encompasses several different parks and historic sites along the Washington and Oregon coasts.

Lewis & Clark National Historic Park
Lewis & Clark National Historic Site Visitor Center

Lewis & Clark National Historic Park
Educational displays inside the Visitor Center

In 1980, the Fort Clatsop Historical Society commissioned artist Stanley Wanlass to create this beautiful bronze commemorating Lewis & Clark reaching the Pacific. The statue is the show-piece of the museum - along with an original "Bartering Blue Beads for Otter Robes" by Newman Myrah.

Arrival by Stanley Wanlass Bartering Blue Beads for Otter Robe by Newman Myrah

After a tour through the Visitor Center, we followed the short path to (the re-creation of) Fort Clatsop.

Fort Clatsop
Fort Clatsop

Fort Clatsop
Inside the fort, looking out. The rooms served as living quarters for the Corp of Discovery.

Fort Clatsop
There are several trails in the historic site - this one follows the Lewis & Clark River

Lewis & Clark National Historical Site
Wild berries growing along the path

Ferns growing in the Lewis & Clark National Historic Site
Beautiful ferns carpet the forest floor

Dugout canoe exhibit at the Lewis & Clark National Historic Site
Dugout canoe exhibit at the
Lewis & Clark National Historic Site

Lewis & Clark National Historic Site
Raised path from the fort re-creation to the river bank

I don't know if you know this... but I just love Thomas Jefferson. (Who doesn't?) Very early in life, I decided Jefferson must be the most intelligent, forward-thinking and interesting men the world has yet produced (this is before I met DT, of course). For some reason, the way his mind worked just intrigues me. Maybe this is why I am so interested in the Corp of Discovery and have now followed nearly every mile of their route. Just imagine having the brains to conceive this expedition? (This is equally impressive to the fact that men actually agreed to go.) Is America great, or what?

After all this exploring, we needed lunch. If you are in Astoria, there is one place you need to go - Bowpicker Fish & Chips (17th St. & Duane St. Astoria, Oregon). Situated in an old Columbia River fishing boat - now land-locked on a hill above the Columbia River Maritime Museum - the Bowpicker serves Albacore tuna fish & chips and nothing else.

Bowpicker Fish & Chips in Astoria, Oregon
Bowpicker Fish & Chips

Bowpicker Fish & Chips - Astoria, Oregon
The complete menu

Bowpicker Fish & Chips
Albacore Tuna Fish & Chips from the Bowpicker in Astoria, Oregon

DT and I split a whole order of five pieces with fries and we each had a bottle of water. $11 lunch for two. Such a deal. The fish is incredibly firm and not "fishy" at all. Crisp on the outside too. I didn't try the fries... but they looked delicious, though I did see many frozen fry boxes outside the "ship".

After lunch, we ventured down the hill to visit the Columbia River Maritime Museum. We highly recommend this museum (two hours minimum) as it is very well-presented and has something to offer everyone - including the kids.

Columbia River Maritime Museum
Columbia River Maritime Museum - on the river in Astoria, Oregon

The museum tells the history of the Columbia River - from ancient times to the recent history of Astoria (the first continually-occupied settlement on the west coast by the way). Astoria started as a fur trading post and, as the otter, etc., were over-trapped, became a fish-processing area. Hundreds of canneries filled the Columbia River banks and hundreds of businesses supported the industry - from tin can-producing factories to brothels. Chinese workers immigrated to work in the canneries, but most of the workers were from Scandinavian countries - especially Finland.

The Columbia River is no longer wild. The fishing has dwindled. The river is now a giant highway, serving as a pipeline to receive international cargo and to ship NW products throughout the world.

Still, there is one part of the Columbia River that cannot be controlled - the mouth. All that fresh water meets the Mighty Pacific in an epic collision. Today, even the largest, most sophisticated ships must sometime wait days on either side of the bar before the colliding waters calm enough to cross. The crossing is so dangerous, and so many ships have crashed, the Columbia Bar is called the "graveyard of the Pacific".

Columbia River Maritime Museum
The exhibit about "Moving Goods" along the river... with a cargo waiting to cross the bar outside

Columbia River Maritime Museum
Different fishing vessels on display inside the Columbia River Maritime Museum

Columbia River Maritime Museum
The Good Old Days - Bumblebee Tuna Cannery in Astoria

Columbia River Maritime Museum
A very interesting exhibit of old cannery labels

Captain Robert Gray's dishes
Captain Robert Gray was the first explorer to chart/enter the Columbia River on
a map (1792). The river was named after his ship - the Columbia.
This plate from his ship and was produced in Canton, China around 1789.

Are you getting tired yet? I know I am.

After our tour through the museum, we drove out to Fort Stevens State Park. Our first stop was to the observation deck on the South Jetty. From this deck you can see the mouth of Columbia River and south along the Pacific Coast.

Fort Stevens State Park
Climb up for a great vista

Fort Stevens State Park
South Jetty with the mouth of the Columbia River to the right

Fort Stevens State Park
Looking south along the Pacific Shore

The state park was a bit befuddled today as a massive group of people had gathered to film a Ford commercial. Several massive trucks were unloading Ford (shiny and red) cars and smaller trucks containing lighting, gaffing, catering, etc., were positioned to shoot the commercial at sunset.

A visit to Astoria just isn't complete unless you have seen (what is left of) the Wreck of the Peter Iredale, a steel ship that wrecked in 1906. (No kidding, my parents brought me here for the first time when I was about six years old... which would be nearly... well, really a long time ago). The Peter Iredale was built in England in 1890 and was her way to Portland when she crashed in a storm. No lives were lost and later the sailors were able to actually walk to the ship to retrieve their belongings!

Peter Iredale
The Peter Iredale

After our busy day, we decided to stay in this evening. I had prepared (at home on Sunday) a savory crust and filling for a Walla Walla Sweet Onion tart. Tonight I put it together in just a few minutes and, served with a tossed salad, we had a great veggie dinner while watching the Mariners win on the satellite television.

Sweet Onion Tart
Life is Sweet

Until my next update, from interesting Astoria, I remain, your cool correspondent.

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