Capri

Sorrento: We met for breakfast to discuss our plan for the day. We had planned to visit Pompeii today, but the weather was questionable and I don't think anyone was too keen on getting in the car again after our long day yesterday. Finally, the weather was looking better, so we decided to go down to the port and catch a ferry to Capri. Luckily, I was wearing Capri pants!

The ferries run often and are reasonably inexpensive. It took less than 30 minutes to reach the island. Several people had warned us that Capri was too touristy and there was nothing to see, etc., but I am happy we did not listen. We found the island really charming, lush with tropical vegetation, friendly people and beautiful scenery. Yes, the town center was packed with tourists and tacky souvenir shops - but the rest of the island was marvelous.

About half of the steps to reach the ferry dock in Sorrento


The Grand Royal Hotel from the ferry - up at the top...
that is a lot of stairs to climb


Shirley and I on the ferry arriving in Capri (mb)


The beach near the port on Capri

We were also warned about the crowded buses, streets and pickpockets, but we wandered around the port until the passengers from our ferry had dispersed and then Shirley started chatting-up a handsome young guide from Capri and hired Alex to drive us around the teeny island all day! (Remember - Kathy also hired a handsome Alex as our gondolier in Venice?) This Alex had an interesting Fiat with six seats - a convertible - and it was perfect for chauffeuring his new friends. The first section of our tour consisted of a drive from the port to the small village of Anacapri near the top of the figure-eight-shaped island. At one point the road comes to a rotary (of sorts) and from this vantage point you can look over to both sides of the island to the sea below. The ride continued over Mama Mia Road - so named because it is so narrow, so twisted and virtually hangs off the side of the cliff, that you cry "Mama Mia"!

Mama Mia road from town


The view from Mama Mia


Mama Mia - I can't believe we took this drive

Alex left us to wander Anacapri - to see the sights, shop and have lunch. The town is very pretty and the weather was just perfect. A small church has a floor painted by Leonardo Chiaiese depicting Adam & Eve being expelled from the Garden of Eden. It is a masterpiece, but the church is no longer used - afraid the painting will be damaged.

The entire floor (dt)


Leonardo Chiaiese floor in Anacapri, shot from above (dt)


In town: we rest on a bench (dt)


Pretty staircase


Sleepy kitty (dt)


Tourists in town (dt)

Not too long ago there were no roads on Capri. Alex showed us the staircase from the port to the top of Anacapri. More than 1,000 steps. Alex said his grandmother used to have to carry water up the steps - every day - in a jug which she carried on the top of her head. We asked Alex how long she lived and he replied - she is still living and 97 years old.

After walking through the little town and walking out to the top of the ridge for a photo, we stopped at a shady cafe for a very nice lunch. Since I was in Capri (pronounced COPP-ree), and wearing Capri pants, it was only fitting that I would order a Caprese Salad! (DT called this a trifecta.) He had a tuna sandwich.

Caprese Salad on the isle of Capri!


DT's tuna sandwich

After lunch, we met Alex again and he drove us over to the other side of the island. The east side has little wind and most of the residents of Capri (12,000 people) live here. However, most of the homes are usually unoccupied - they are vacation homes. Many fisherman leave from the small port on this side of the island and at the dock there is a very small chapel - only open very early in the morning - where the fishermen can pray just before leaving port.

Alex said this formation is called "Three rocks" (dt)


Path to the beach (dt)


Crystal-clear waters (dt)


Vintage Fiat taxi


Another cat

We had more of a drive and then we were taken back to the main street in Capri. Here we found many craft shops and every high-end Italian designer also had a small shop. I finally found my quest: a new salt cellar. This one actually reads "SALE GROSSO" (course salt), so I think I am finished with my shopping and my poor hubby no longer has to follow me into every pottery shop we pass.

A sweet counter in Capri


Fading paint on a beautiful old building

 
Here I am with Alex. He was smart, funny and cute.


Shirley with Alex


What goes up, must come down: arriving back to the port via Mama Mia

After saying goodbye to our new best friend, Alex, we had to fight our way on to the ferry back to the main land. We stood in line for the next ferry. The idea of an actual line was completely foreign to waiting passengers. People simply plowed ahead and crashed the line and worked their way up to the front of the line. It was unbelievable. The ferry holds nearly 500 people and they had one guy "controlling" the line. Everyone ignored him. Finally, the people in the back of the line started heckling line-crashers. We did find a seat on the boat, but it was like being in a floating sardine can.

Return to Sorrento

After reaching Sorrento we had to climb up 130 steps to reach the main town level. By the time we reached the top, we realized we were all tired and needed a rest before dinner. We met in the lobby and went a few feet down the streets to Photo restaurant. We have no idea why the restaurant is named Photo, as there isn't a thing to do with photography in the restaurant. The owners also have a small food shop and an organic farm somewhere on the peninsula. Our meals were very good, the service was excellent. We had a good time, before we all started to fall asleep in our plates... so walked back to the hotel for bed.

Braesola


Ravioli

Pedometer: 16,311 steps. Nearly seven miles. Guess we walked more around Capri than I thought! Gelato of the Day: Everything Gelato. It was a vanilla/chocolate swirl with hazelnuts, walnuts, peanuts and chocolate chips. DIVINE!